I'd also tone the feeding down even more. Taking longer than i was expecting. Other than that it's just a waiting game. In my high tech planted tank I shoot for ~20ppm nitrate. This process is called cycling and can take up to 8 weeks when starting from scratch. It is a known fact that ammonia poisoning is more common at high alkaline pH levels. It has been running for over a week now. CamLo. If you have not done a fishless cycling before getting any fish, it is unavoidable to have a high concentration of ammonia and nitrite in your aquarium once you have put fish in it. It is supposed to look brown and yucky...that is the bacteria that makes it look like that!!!! If the ammonia, nitrite or nitrate level in your tank is allowed to get out of control, it could have serious consequences for your fish. I've heard some beneficial bacteria lives in the substrate, but I don't understand why vacuuming the substrate would remove this bacteria anymore than water passing over the media in your filter. I always have 0 nitrites and low ammonia but crazy nitrates. Press J to jump to the feed. Nitrosonomas can actually go long amounts of time without ammonia, they go into a dormant state.However, I'm not suggesting that but I am saying definitely don't dose it daily, that's a mistake often made and then you get into this vicious cycle of ammonia dosing and water changes do to high nitrites. One, and most common in new tanks, is a bacterial bloom, but we're not sure why that is the case. I've been cycling my tank for al... Ammonia present at 1.0ppm, 0ppm nitrites and 0 nitrates. API Test, Help! PH was something like 7.8. When you are forced to change filter media, you should keep the old owne in with the new for a few weeks to seed the new filter. I'd recommend trying to find something more like an aquarium only LFS. I'm not familiar with the API product but prime is more useful IMO (and often cheaper per gallon of water treated). Ive been testing the water every other day if not every day so i don't think i would have missed it.....and will the nitrites ever spike while i have nitrates???? This process generally takes anywhere from a month to 9-10 weeks, sometimes more. I tested the water again tonight and the ammonia is still reading as a 4. I wonder if the test kit is dodgy. Fast growing plants like hornwort will improve water quality by ingesting toxic nitrogen compounds. HELP!! None of my other fish are showing any signs of ammonia poisoning. I even added a couple of black mollies. As for your tap water, I wouldn't be concerned about adding it to my tank at 2ppm. It is just waste, and putting a big wad of floss in the filter will remove it. This is a 36 gallon bow front, fresh water. Build Thread Contributor. My ammonia and nitrite are undetectable and the tanks have decent water movement. I also did a cycle for 10 weeks and something simular happened to me, I actually was testing the water every other day and had two fish to cycle my tank... on week 11 and 12 everything read zero and no spike was ever detected anywhere. Your nitrite is likely zero but it doesn’t matter if they’re not, nitrites simply don’t matter to reef cycling. High Ammonia, No Nitrates Or Nitrites. For example, overfiltration is important for saltwater and goldfish tanks but too much flow can be detrimental to long finned ornamental fish. Be patient though, nitrosomonas and nitrobacter are slow growers. I just moved to my town at the end of the December and live in an apartment. Why have i got high reading of nitrates? This should help kick start your cycle. Goldfish need a lot of flow because they make a lot of waste, and saltwater because the animals you keep are more sensitive, so even when it's the right answer it can be for different reasons. Started about a week ago. The rate of conversion depends on the size of the bacterial colony. I already tested the tap water. If I was overstocked that would be a problem but as it stands it's not. I tested the water straight out of my tap and that had a reading of 2ppm. Apr 16, 2018. Nitrates and nitrites are very soluble, do not adsorb readily to mineral and soil surfaces, and are very mobile in the environment. Both ammonia and nitrite are extremely toxic to the fish in your aquarium. Come here to enjoy pictures, videos, articles and discussion. Nitrates are still dangerous at high levels, of course, but fish can tolerate higher levels of it than the other things. Might take a few days, and then you can toss the floss or rinse it and reuse it. This is great information. My freshwater tanks are, if anything under filtered on average. I'd recommend prime (or amquel) in place of ammo down. I have today done some tests and these are the readings: ammonia:1.0....Nitrite:0.25....Nitrates:2.0, so not much change really. They have failed for me before. I did a 25%-ish water change and put the declorinator and more of the SafeStart in. Another example is how ideal nitrate levels can vary widely depending on the setup. Over feeding could be a problem source; it's OK to feed the fish twice a day, but try to give them no more than they actually eat in a couple of minutes. Over filtration is key my friend. Whereas in reef tanks I put purigen in the filter and keep a sump full of macro algae to remove every bit that I can. I by chance checked the nitrates thinking that they would be zero because ive not seen any spike in the nitrites. The idea here is to keep the ammonia levels down and the ammonia that is present detoxified with ammo lock. It was originally thought to be Nitrobacter species which were responsible for nitrite conversion to nitrate in aquaria, but again, recent research (by Dr. Timothy Hovanec and others) indicates a different group of bacteria - Nitrospira - are responsible.. Nitrate. Louise says. Does not go away unless you make a real effort to eliminate the cause and then a few tank flushes to remove enough of the algae to get ahead of it's reproductive capacity. I will not be defeated, lol. The levels of ammonia and nitrite, if the system is functioning correctly, should begin to approach zero as nitrate levels continue to rise at a steady rate. Both these anions have a -1 electrical charge. The Ammonia started to rise (1-2) and then small traces of nitrites started showing but never rose above 0.25. The key difference between nitrate and nitrite is that nitrate contains three oxygen atoms bonded to a nitrogen atom whereas nitrite contains two oxygen atoms bonded to a nitrogen atom.. Using fish food for ammonia. I'd recommend 50% to start with then drop down to ~25%. It might take a couple days to notice an effect. Stress Coat Plus is one example. I didn't have the API master test kit to begin with, but bought that recently. Nitrate level 5ppm. Adding ammonia to a cycled tank may not be an issue because it is broken down, but in your tank adding ammonia is obviously bad for your fish. Buy some prime, and use it to treat your water and do daily 30% water changes until that ammonia level is down. High nitrates and nitrites, low ammonia. I have been cycling a tank for 3 weeks now and test the water every 2-3 days and have never come across a reading for nitrites. The nitrogen cycle grows in sequential steps, and nitrate is usually the last nitrogen compound to increase. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate . This time is called the “conditioning period”. Obviously no more fish until your tank is cycled. My pH likes to be around 7.6, my ammonia is at 8ppm, Nitrate is nearly at 5 ppm, and my Nitrites are at 0 ppm. According to the Institute for Systems Biology , the recommended level of nitrate in a stable aquaponics system is between 10 and 150 parts per million (ppm), depending on the type and number of fish and amount of water they’re producing. I started the tank using Tetra SafeStart Plus and slowly added fish to my tank. If this is all a mess up on my part I'll be disappointed, but understand. My first instinct was to do a … I have had 0-.25 ammonia and 0 nitrites, and 40 I think on the nitrates. No flow, no heat. I recommended HOB's with adjustable flow rates so he has the ability to tweak it for freshwater. Two, would be algae, greenwater. I'm afraid that my gold twinbar platy is showing some signs of ammonia poisoning. I did not do any water changes or filter cleanings, waiting for some sign of cycling. Some things to consider studying; Nitrogen Cycle(Ammonia,NitrIte, NitrAte), Nutrition (food), Proper Water Changes (you'll need to do more than 25% a month, and "top offs". the ammonia has gone down to 0 now but i've had no nitrate spikes or nitrite spikes. For the next couple of weeks, you may want to do a 25 percent water change every three days. No not done anything different, forgot to mention that 1 of the mollies gave birth to 15 babies 4 days ago and they are in a floating hatchery tank. The nitrate and nitrite are very high in my tank too, I don't have any fish in there at the moment since its a new tank. I have been running my 48ltr tank now for 5 wks, 4 wks with fish 2xmollies , they both seem fine and showing no signs of stress. It's not as reactive as ammonia or nitrite, so a nitrate concentration below 40 ppm is acceptable. Ammonia has been off the roof 8+ppm (8 was the highest my test kit can detect), no nitrite or nitrate readings. High ammonia, no nitrites. Question is should i do Large water changes to bring down my nitrate? To fully cycle a tank you're looking for first an ammonia spike, then a nitrite spike and then they both drop to 0. It stops the fish from taking up oxygen. I merely want him to be able to put what fish and how many he wants without the tank recycling when a fish or two is added haha. While ammonia and nitrite are highly toxic to fish, nitrate is much less so. Filters should not be changed unless they are falling apart. The nitrate and nitrite are very high in my tank too, I don't have any fish in there at the moment since its a new tank. While nitrate is harmless at low concentration, nitrite is even more deadly than ammonia to the aquarium fish. Nitrite ions form nitrous acid, which turns out to be a weaker acid. This good bacterium eats nitrite and converts it to nitrate. However, as nitrate accumulates, fish will eventually be affected. I waited and waited, but my nitrite/nitrate tests are still coming up with zero. I am new to aquariums. If there is chloramine there is a decent chance your dechlorinator doesn't even detoxify it properly. Each 1 ppm ammonia you add is turned into 2.7 ppm nitrite; 6 ppm ammonia becomes 16.2 ppm nitrite. This in turn will affect the life span of the fish! Hi thanks for the advice both. A quick way to determine if you might need to perform alkalinity addition is to multiply the ammonia (NH3) by 7.1 mg/L. Should I start with just doing the daily water changes to see how things go or should I jump into a better filter straight away? Someone told me i could be over feeding and thats why i have nitrates and was advised to reduce feeding to once every other day and do a couple of PWC which i have done but not much change in the readings today other than the nitrites have now reappeared and are reading at 0.25 Can any one explain what might be happening and how i can get the tank back on track? How to fix ammonia spikes, nitrite spikes and new tank syndrome. In most cases, you shouldn’t need to worry about it until the end of the cycle. The beneficial bacteria that make up the nitrogen cycle live mostly in the substrate and filter elements. The pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels were tested and the results proved it to be a healthy tank. Thus, replacing all of the filter elements at the same time will remove too much bacteria. Until recently, I thought everything had been going OK, but now I'm having problems. Started about a week ago. Because high levels of ammonia and nitrite are lethal for fish, it is critical that these products be efficiently removed or converted to nitrate. Admittedly, this could have been building for a while because I didn't not start this process with any sort of water quality test kit. You may want to click on this link for a little more on what to expect while the cycle is growing:http://www.myaquariumclub.com/another-look-at-the-nitrogen-cycle-1005.html. Did you do anything to the tank the other day for the cycle to take a bit of a hit? Some people get amazing results and others not so much. It's not as reactive as ammonia or nitrite, so a nitrate concentration below 40 ppm is acceptable. Tank A; pH level 7.6. 3 month old tank with high ammonia and no nitrites or nitrates. The water stinks like hell because of the excessive die offs, so I have done a few water changes lately, it reduces the smell but not the ammonia. The system has been running now close to 5 weeks, or so. High ammonia no nitrites but high nitrates?? They advised we leave it another week and do a 50% water change. In nitrite the oxidation number of Nitrogen is +3. So I had four fish in there, and actually a few babies that one of the platies birthed. Using fish food for ammonia. Ammonium nitrate is a chemical compound with the chemical formula NH 4 NO 3.It is a white crystalline solid consisting of ions of ammonium and nitrate.It is highly soluble in water and hygroscopic as a solid, although it does not form hydrates.It is predominantly used in agriculture as a high-nitrogen fertilizer. I actually add nitrates to this tank to get to that level. Cookies help us deliver our Services. In a fishless cycle you would wait for the ammonia to drop to zero then the nitrites to drop to zero and then show only nitrate for a few days to a week, as you add ammonia every day. There was a little ammonia in the tank a few days ago and the nitrite and nitrate were also high so I did a 30% water change and tested the water again. Nitrite level 0ppm. That was entirely an error on my part. Please help!! Lower is better, but it would be unusual if nitrate were to measure zero concentration. When cycling the tank I don't really change water only top up for evaporation for the first 3 weeks, I drop food in as if I'm feeding a single fish, After the 2 to 3 weeks then I start doing small water changes and test the water, Cloudy water is usually due to substrate not been washed properly I've found, I never clean my filters only the sock filter and maybe the first filter pad if I messed so thing up. I filled the rinsed test bottle straight from it and got a 2ppm reading. you read and agreed to the, A quick fix for a tank with high ammonia and nitrites, High Nitrites, but no Ammonia or Nitrates? Nitrite is made up of one Nitrogen atom and two Oxygen atoms. It seems like the aquarium established a nitrogen cycle, then something overwhelmed it or removed much of the beneficial bacteria. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. No, that is a myth. Did 25% water change, followed several days later by 25% water change. Nitrates are generally considered the end of the nitrogen cycle because for the most part, aerobic bacteria will not further process the nitrates into another compound. I use to use fish food and shrimp as my ammonia source, but I could never figure out the right amount, so I now use pure ammonia on my new tanks. This is how I keep fish healthy in an uncycled quarantine tank until they are ready to go in one of my displays. I've used it twice and tested daily even though they say not to, it takes quite a while (10 days) and two water changes to actually see the correct levels due to the solution the bacteria comes in. They say that it's only when you don't follow the instructions exactly that it doesn't work. Reply. While removing water, syphon any debris off the substrate surface, but deep clean only about 1/3 of it in any week. Use a test strip to determine if the nitrate levels are high. I don't think you need a new filter, air pump etc. I am running a fluval 50 w/ extra biomedia that i bought. The bacteria is stored in an ammonia solution which can throw off your levels. High NitrAtes, No Ammonia, No NitrItes High NitrAtes, No Ammonia, No NitrItes. Decided to add more fish to get a cycle...still nothing... but that was not possible.

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